Boracay hardly needs an introduction. White Beach, with its powder-fine sand and famously blue water, has made this small Philippine island one of the country’s most recognizable destinations.
Located off the northwestern tip of Panay in the central Philippines, Boracay is small enough to cross in relatively little time, yet its beaches and neighborhoods can feel remarkably different from one another. Spend a few days here—particularly outside the traditional dry-season rush—and the island begins to reveal that there is much more to a Boracay weekend than the postcard.
I traveled to Boracay from August 27 to 30, right in the middle of Habagat, the Philippines’ southwest monsoon season. It’s an important distinction when planning a trip. This time of year can bring stronger winds, rain, and rougher conditions along Boracay’s western coast, which means the calm waters and lineup of water activities travelers often associate with White Beach aren’t necessarily guaranteed.
But that doesn’t mean Boracay should be written off during the season. In some ways, it gives you a reason to experience the island differently.
If the classic sun-soaked Boracay experience is what you’re after, however, timing matters. The Philippines’ dry season generally runs from December through May, with December through February bringing slightly cooler dry-season weather and March through May marking the hotter Philippine summer months. For Boracay, December through April is generally a strong window for sunnier days, calmer conditions along White Beach, swimming, sailing, and island hopping. March and April are particularly warm, although crowds can increase significantly around Holy Week and other holidays.
In other words, an August Boracay and a March Boracay can look very different. Our Habagat trip required flexibility, but it also pushed us to look beyond the version of the island most often seen in photographs.
We spent our days finding quieter corners, discovering Bulabog, eating across different parts of the island, and seeing how dramatically Boracay’s character can change within a relatively short distance.
And that may have been the biggest surprise of the trip: Boracay is much more interesting when you stop treating White Beach as the entire destination.
Here’s what to know before you go—and how to make the most of a few days on the island.
Getting There
Getting to Boracay requires a little more planning than simply stepping off a plane.
If you’re flying into Caticlan Airport, the closest airport to Boracay, you’re already remarkably close to the island, but there is still a land transfer, port crossing, and another transfer on the Boracay side between baggage claim and your hotel.
There are two ways to approach it: do the transfers yourself or book a door-to-door service.
We chose convenience.
Just outside Caticlan Airport are counters for several transfer companies, and we opted for Layod’s Travel & Tours, which handled the journey from the airport all the way to our accommodation. After a flight, luggage in tow, there is something particularly appealing about having someone else handle the different stages of getting onto the island.
For travelers who would rather save money, however, the DIY route is entirely possible.
From Caticlan Airport, take local transportation to the jetty port. At the port, travelers register and pay the required fees before boarding the short boat ride to Boracay.
For reference, current fees include:
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Environmental fee: PHP 150 (about US$2.40) for Filipino tourists and PHP 300 (about US$4.80) for foreign tourists
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Terminal fee: PHP 150 (about US$2.40), paid once upon entry
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Regular boat fare: Around PHP 50–60 (about US$0.80–$1) per crossing
International visitors can expect to pay about PHP 500 (US$8) upon arrival, while Filipino travelers pay about PHP 350 (US$5.60). The environmental and terminal fees are paid only once; for the trip back to the mainland, you’ll only need to pay for the boat ticket.
Rates and currency conversions are approximate and may change.
Once you reach Boracay, you’ll still need an e-trike or other local transfer from the arrival port to your accommodation.
Allow some time for the process, too. Registration, fee payment, waiting for boarding, and the crossing itself all add another stage to the journey after landing.
The Weekender tip: If you’re traveling light and watching your budget, DIY is manageable. If you’re carrying several bags, traveling with family, or simply don’t want your vacation to begin by navigating multiple transfers, a door-to-door service is worth considering.
Some Boracay hotels also arrange airport or port transfers, so it’s worth checking with your accommodation before booking separately.
Transportation rates, government fees, and currency conversions are subject to change, so confirm current charges before traveling.
Getting Around
Once you’re on Boracay, getting around becomes considerably easier.
E-trikes are readily available and make moving between different parts of the island relatively straightforward. But before automatically booking one every time you leave your hotel, check the front desk.
Both The Strand Boutique Resort and Canyon Hotels & Resorts Boracay, where we stayed during this trip, offered scheduled drop-offs to D’Mall. The schedules are available from the front desk.
It’s a small amenity, but one worth knowing about—especially if you’re heading toward the busier Station 2 area more than once during your stay.
Where to Stay
Boracay has accommodations at nearly every price point, from large beachfront resorts to intimate boutique properties and more budget-conscious stays.
This isn’t meant to be an exhaustive list of Boracay hotels. These are the properties I can speak about from personal experience—two we stayed in and one I had the opportunity to tour.
The Strand Boutique Resort
Station 1, near Diniwid Beach
For travelers who want to stay near White Beach without feeling like they’re constantly in the middle of its busiest stretch, The Strand Boutique Resort offers a quieter alternative.
Tucked into a lush pocket near Station 1, The Strand was one of our homes during the trip, and its setting was part of the appeal. Rather than opening directly onto Boracay’s crowds, the property feels removed from them, with greenery, intimate common spaces, and suites that encourage you to slow down once you’re back from exploring.
We stayed in a one-bedroom suite, which gave us considerably more room than a standard hotel setup and made returning at the end of the day feel more like coming home than simply going back to a room.
Breakfast was included with our stay, but another useful part of the property is Mahogany Lounge, where guests can settle in for food and drinks without having to leave the resort. The space also doubles as a casual co-working spot for travelers who need to open a laptop, answer a few emails, or get some work done between beach days. Walk-ins are welcome, too.
Location is another advantage. White Beach at Station 1 is roughly a two-minute walk away, while Diniwid Beach is also nearby, making The Strand a useful base for travelers who want easy beach access without necessarily staying directly on the beachfront.
The resort also offers scheduled transportation to D’Mall; check the front desk for departure times.
Want a closer look at the property? Read my full Gurus feature on The Strand Boutique Resort here.
Banana Bay Boracay
Bulabog Beach
Cross over to the Bulabog side and Boracay begins to feel different.
We didn’t stay at Banana Bay Boracay, so I can’t speak to the overnight experience in quite the same way as The Strand or Canyon. But after having lunch at The Monkey Tree Cafe & Bar, I had the opportunity to tour the property—and it was enough to make Banana Bay worth including.
Set along Bulabog Beach, the resort reflects much of what made me unexpectedly fall for this side of Boracay. There’s a quieter energy here, away from the constant movement of White Beach, and the property itself has a noticeable connection to its surroundings.
During the tour, I learned more about its use of Filipino craftsmanship, sustainable wood, refillable bottles, and a deliberately low-density approach.
And with The Monkey Tree Cafe & Bar on the property and Bulabog just outside, you’d already have two of my favorite discoveries from the trip within reach.
For more on Banana Bay and The Monkey Tree Cafe & Bar, read my full Gurus feature here.
Canyon Hotels & Resorts Boracay
The Shoppes at Station B, Sitio Sinagpa, Balabag
For a more budget-conscious stay without sacrificing space or easy access to the beach, Canyon Hotels & Resorts Boracay proved to be a practical base during our trip.
The room was surprisingly spacious, particularly for the price point. But Canyon’s biggest advantage may be just how convenient everything around it is.
The hotel sits directly atop and connects to The Shoppes at Station B, Boracay’s only fully air-conditioned shopping mall. That puts everyday necessities practically downstairs, including Robinsons Supermarket, Mercury Drug, and Rose Pharmacy, along with restaurants, cafés, shops, and ATMs. For families, there are entertainment options in the complex as well.
That may not sound like the most glamorous reason to choose an island hotel, but spending several days away from home and suddenly being able to grab water, snacks, medicine, toiletries, or something you forgot to pack without making a separate trip becomes a genuine advantage.
Balai Inasal, one of my dining recommendations from the trip, is also in the same complex.
Then there’s the location. Canyon is roughly a five-minute walk from the Station 1 stretch of White Beach and, like The Strand, is also close to Diniwid Beach. The hotel additionally offers scheduled drop-offs to D’Mall, with times available at the front desk.
For travelers who plan to spend most of their time out exploring but still want a comfortable, roomy place to return to, Canyon offers something particularly useful: value without feeling inconvenient.
Where to Dine
Boracay has no shortage of places to eat, but part of exploring the island is knowing when to venture beyond the obvious beachfront restaurants.
Over four days, we found everything from a quiet lunch in Bulabog and Filipino comfort food to good coffee, something sweet by White Beach, and a few island staples worth making room for.
The Monkey Tree Cafe & Bar
Banana Bay Boracay, Bulabog Beach
Located inside Banana Bay Boracay, The Monkey Tree Cafe & Bar was one of the places that introduced me to the other side of the island.
Our table moved through Chef J’s Laing with Lechon Kawali, Beef Rendang, Catch of the Day Crudo, and The Monkey Tree Cheeseburger, followed, naturally, by a Spanish Latte.
And I certainly wasn’t leaving without trying the coffee.
The slower atmosphere of Bulabog makes lingering over a cup particularly easy, and lunch ultimately became more than somewhere we stopped to eat. It was one of the experiences that made me want to spend more time on this side of Boracay.
Read my full Gurus feature on The Monkey Tree Cafe & Bar and Banana Bay Boracay here.
Jonah’s Fruit Shake & Snack Bar
You can find fruit shakes all over Boracay, but Jonah’s is practically an island institution—and after trying it, I understood why people still make a point of stopping here.
We tried the Avocado Shake and Mango Banana Shake, and what stood out most was the texture. Both were thick and creamy without being unpleasantly icy, with the fruit still coming through clearly. Even the ice was blended incredibly fine, giving the shakes that smooth consistency that can make all the difference.
Between the two, you really can’t go wrong. The avocado is rich and creamy, while the mango and banana combination gives you more of that tropical fruit hit you expect to be drinking somewhere like Boracay.
It may be one of the island’s most obvious stops, but sometimes the classics earn their reputation.
Balai Inasal
The Shoppes at Station B
If you’re staying at Canyon, one of the easiest Filipino meals to add to the itinerary happens to be in the same complex.
But convenience isn’t the reason Balai Inasal belongs on this list.
As the name suggests, inasal is central to the menu, and the Pechopak Inasal—chicken breast with wing served with inasal rice—is a staple order.
But don’t stop at the chicken.
The Kare-Kare, Balai Inasal’s crispy take on the Filipino classic with a thick and creamy peanut sauce, is a must-try. So is the Cansi, the Ilonggo favorite that brings together some of the comforting richness of bulalo with the sourness of sinigang, prepared here with green jackfruit, chili peppers, and batwan fruit.
They’re hearty, comforting dishes—the kind that hit particularly well after a long day around the island.
Island Bowls
Main Road, Dmall of Boracay, Station 2
Not every meal in Boracay needs to be a destination restaurant.
For something casual and reasonably priced, Island Bowls has a surprisingly wide selection, making it a useful stop when everyone in your group seems to be craving something different.
We tried the Shrimp Mala Tang Noodle Soup and the Spam with Island Bowl Fried Rice. Neither was the kind of meal I would call the best thing I ate in Boracay, but both were surprisingly tasty—and exactly the sort of satisfying, unfussy food that works after a long day around the island.
The portions run a little small, but considering the reasonable prices and variety of choices, it still offers good value. I’d keep this one on the list for a quick lunch or casual dinner rather than a special night out.
Coco Mama
D’Mall Avenue of Boracay, Station 2
And then there’s Coco Mama, which needs very little ceremony.
The Station 2 location near D’Mall makes it an easy stop while you’re walking around White Beach, and its coconut ice cream has become one of those Boracay treats you see everywhere for a reason.
Served in a coconut shell with fresh mango and coconut, it’s cold, refreshing, and exactly the sort of thing you want after walking around the island in tropical weather.
Is it one of those Boracay stops everyone seems to photograph? Yes.
Should you still get one? Absolutely.
Café del Sol
Beachfront D’Mall, Station 2
There are also moments when being right in the middle of White Beach is exactly the point.
Located on the beachfront at D’Mall, Café del Sol has been part of the Boracay dining landscape since 2003.
I went for the Eggs Benedict with Ham, with poached egg and ham under creamy Hollandaise, alongside a Toffee Butternut Latte.
And then there is the Mango Cheesecake.
One of Café del Sol’s signatures, it’s worth saving room for even if you technically only stopped in for coffee.
Breakfast, coffee, cheesecake, and White Beach just outside—it’s a combination particularly suited to a Boracay morning when there is nowhere you urgently need to be.
Where to Explore
White Beach—and the Locals Who Know Exactly How to Photograph It
White Beach deserves its reputation. But here’s a Boracay tip that might save you from coming home with hundreds of awkward selfies: pay attention when locals along the beach offer to take your photo.
Some of them are remarkably good at it.
During our trip, we encountered locals offering to take photos using your own phone, with no fixed photography fee—just a donation afterward.
And they know the assignment.
They know where to stand, how to work with the scenery and light, and even how to direct your poses. What might begin as someone offering to snap a quick photo can turn into a surprisingly good little beach shoot.
The lack of a fixed amount shouldn’t be treated as an excuse to under-tip. If someone spends time helping you and gives you photos you genuinely love, compensate them accordingly.
It’s one of those small, very human Boracay experiences that rarely appears on a formal itinerary—and you may come home with some of your favorite photographs from the trip because of it.
Bulabog Beach
If White Beach is the Boracay everyone arrives expecting to see, Bulabog was the Boracay I didn’t expect to fall for.
Located on the opposite side of the island, Bulabog felt quieter and easier to simply spend time in. There were cafés and small businesses to discover, people moving through their everyday routines, and enough breathing room to notice the island rather than just its attractions.
Bulabog doesn’t need to compete with White Beach. That’s precisely the point.
Seeing both gives you a much better understanding of Boracay than spending the entire trip within the familiar Station 1-to-3 corridor.
When Habagat Changes the Plan, Go by Land
A trip during Habagat requires some flexibility.
Rougher sea conditions can affect Boracay’s usual water activities and boat excursions, so don’t arrive with an itinerary that depends entirely on being out on the water.
One alternative worth keeping in your plans is a land tour of the island. Depending on the operator and conditions, typical routes can include Puka Beach, Diniwid Beach, Bulabog Beach, Boracay Newcoast and the Keyhole, Ilig-Iligan Beach, and Willy’s Rock.
Puka Beach in particular is one to have on the radar. Located toward the northern end of the island, it offers a different atmosphere from the developed stretch of White Beach and is a regular highlight on Boracay land-tour itineraries. The Keyhole at Boracay Newcoast is another recognizable photo stop, while Ilig-Iligan offers another opportunity to see a quieter stretch of coastline.
We didn’t end up doing the land tour ourselves, so I can’t give you a firsthand review. But after experiencing how much the character of Boracay changes between White Beach, Diniwid, and Bulabog, it’s something I would put on my own list for a return trip—especially during Habagat.
Sometimes the weather doesn’t ruin the itinerary. It simply asks you to make a different one.
